Відео

Have a gooden dude! Magic place! I love the first section up to flugplatz but I never really seem to find my rhythm until the last section from Hohe Acht... Some of those barriers seem magnetic haha!

No because you are not altering the gearing

Sadly not bud. It's something we really explored and would of jumped on if there had been any option to put a higher final drive in while I was having the LSD put in. Sadly no such option exists for the PDK.... only manual versions.

Moment of inertia dictates the reason mid engines don’t always have a lsd/atb. The weight distribution and effect of rotation around the centre of inertia are why front engine rear drive cars benefit from an atb/lsd. Most cars traction control will sort out the wheel in the air problem. But if you have a rear wheel drive car that regularly cocks it’s leg you should address the suspension as it doesn’t have enough travel and isn’t going to put with any type of diff.

@@Simb-l I've had several mid engined cars and the lack of LSD is EXTREMELY notcieable. I agree with you that FR/FF is worse without an LSD. Yes, some cars have an electronic LSD, but if you're on track, the traction is off anyway. As for cocking the rear, it can happen and no suspension will counter certain curbs/roads.

The suspension was standard bar H&R lowering springs here... not a great combination with all that power!! For a review WITH the many modifications, see here: ua-cam.com/video/ClfFhhjeSUE/v-deo.html

Sad but totally true. Driving standards are only getting worse imho too and the road conditions are shocking at the moment. I'd always love a motorbike but simply feel as if I cant for the same reasons.

Love it Dave, exactly!! Takes a while to get to that realisation, but once you do, it makes TDs all the more enjoyable.😊

I think I was very fortunate as it didn't (the car went a while ago), though some kind person keyed nearly every panel which detracted from the paint somewhat! 😓

It's been enjoying an extended sabbatical as I've had to spend time and money elsewhere, it's booked in for work required to get back out on the track ... I can't wait, it's just brilliant fun! Videos to come before long... the MR2 will be out first though, it's very nearly track ready. 👍

Thank you Sir, not long to wait.. the project has been moving along nicely. 👍

😂

I can only think that they tried to give us as much head height as possible for safety and to make it worth while over the oem humps mate. They could of perhaps notched into that section but again, that just adds a weakness/failure point in the design.

Thanks bud, It's not making the power it should just yet. Currently making 185hp but certainly capable of 200+! We will be doing a series on it delving into optimising the ITB setup and tune.

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS thanks for the reply and I look forward to watching that 👌

Hey Bud, This was bought to fill the hole the mk1 turbo mx5 I had left. Matt has the BBR225 NC still👍. Hoping to get them both out together over summer

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Awesome thank you. Looking forward to it!

Great to hear others can relate to the experiences, one thing I think goes unsaid is the upsides of the non-//M cars.. practicality, comfort and ease of enjoyment go a very long way in a daily! 😊

This is such good input thanks, I notice it when editing the vids and put it down to spending my days in Teams meetings watching others on camera rather than looking into the camera directly - it crosses over into recording on the phone quite clearly! I find it quite alien not looking at a screen but am trying to address and we'll see how I get on!!

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS was you at cadwell last night (wed 29th)

Sure was, we were in my brother’s (now black) K20 MR2… what were you in?..

@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS ahh thought it was you, Grey mk6 Fiesta ZS. First time out in it. I use to have a track built TT mk1

It's so so sooo thick plate material mate I wouldn't worry about the structural integrity... I think the fibreglass seat would shatter before the mount broke :). I was able to get the seat much lower in doing so. There is another option that we do on the mk1/2 mx5s but i didnt want to do so in the mk3... that is to cut the humps out of the floor to create a totally flat surface to bolt the seats directly through the floor. This is the way to get the seat literally on the floor. It works well tbf!

Duplicate reply from the Supsnsion vid, hopefully one finds you: I think I might be a bit of a feel through the bum driver as much as through the wheel as it has tended make less of a difference to my enjoyment of cars than others report.. for example, give me power assisted mk3 MR2 steering over unassisted 'pure' mk1 Elise any day! That said, driving my car back to back with an m135i without the //M arms at the front, the m135i felt much less precise and feelsome, I hadn't appreciated the difference they made to the drive until this point and felt like I needed more information and accuracy from the front of the 35 without the mods.

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS thanks for the response, appreciated!

I think I might be a bit of a feel through the bum driver as much as through the wheel as it has tended make less of a difference to my enjoyment of cars than others report.. for example, give me power assisted mk3 MR2 steering over unassisted 'pure' mk1 Elise any day! That said, driving my car back to back with an m135i without the //M arms at the front, the m135i felt much less precise and feelsome, I hadn't appreciated the difference they made to the drive until this point and felt like I needed more information and accuracy from the front of the 35 without the mods.

🤣🤣🤣🤣

ua-cam.com/video/W0gjjl8l1Y0/v-deo.html

We have a date in the diary for an LSD to go in, can't wait! 😁

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS could you possibly share roughly how much you got quoted for fully fitted ? Thanks & great insightful vid 👍🏽

It was ~£1700, although I'm editing the Quaife vid currently and will include the official price from Birds in that vid once I have it. 👍

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARSI have the same car. What mods are possible to increase horse power or make it quicker? Thank you

@@KevinJohnstone-hx7kz there are a few supercharger options for big increases, or for more modest but material increases I would speak to BDS Motorsport if you’re in the UK. They do a few nice packages at various price points. I would love to do their ‘stage 3’ package in this car! 👍

I honestly don't know I'm afraid as I've got such little experience with 4WD cars. I owned a 435d x-drive and my feeling at the time was that it could have been improved with a diff. I will be at Birds BMW soon, so will ask for their experiences/recommendation and report back. 👍

Getting harder and harder to find, especially with low miles.

It really does depend on your personal preference for comfort, insulation, the type of roads you drive daily, the number of longer journeys you do, it's quite a tricky one to answer. I think if I had an NC as an only car, I would still fit CRDs ( I think there's a new Meister R product on the horizon, so likely worth holding on a little and waiting), but I would certainly buy some nice 16" wheels too and use them with some good quality, but road biased tyres, so as to gain some comfort back from a larger and softer sidewall and taller and more heavily treaded treadblocks. I'd also keep the daily tyres nice and narrow for better road behaviour. I hope that is helpful. 👍

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Thanks

Thank you ever so much for taking the time to provide some comprehensive information and your experiences, some really valuable information there for me! I think much is in line with what I've read and gleaned so far, but thank in particular for explaining regards the ARBs and the strut design, crucial for me as I'm 'used to' double wishbones with Hondas and then Miatas. Does adding a thicker bar promote understeer at all or is it counter intuitive in these cars? And has bump steer been any more pronounced or the car felt less planted over bumpy roads with the thicker ARB? I suspect there is a nice improvement to be found for me with a readily available and sensibly priced aftermarket front bar, I just don't want to jeopardise it on our very poor road in the area that I live. Great to hear that the brakes should be up to the job, especially having used them with 255s, I am banking on this and have upgraded similarly - to be discussed in a vid before long. One thing I haven't done yet was the brass guides, I was waiting to see if the brakes could cope before doing this. Initially on track I intend on using a 225 square tyre setup, hoping to find the limits a little lower and be able to tune the balance before adding substantial grip, but cost also plays a part. On the road I'm of the mind that I don't need any more than a 225 front or rear, but will likely go 235 or 245 with a 40 profile to gain some additional comfort and longer gearing (there might be a 3.64:1 diff in the garage waiting to go in).

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Of course, it's my pleasure. I love watching Z4 coupe content on UA-cam, but there isn't much out there. So thank you for making videos of this amazing car :) Macpherson strut design has such a poor camber curve that you need static camber and front bar to correct it and get proper mid-corner grip. I'm sure there's a point at which a stiffer front bar would cause understeer but I haven't reached that point with my H&R front bar on the stiffest setting and rear bar on the softest setting. I found that lowering the suspension caused bump steer, not stiffening the bar. However, if you lower the suspension, stiffening the bar will exacerbate the bump steer. At stock ride height the bump steer isn't increased by the stiffer bar in my experience. I run my PSS9s at the max ride height and I still wish they went a little higher for proper suspension geometry. After installing the stiffer front bar, I felt more immediate turn-in and better weight transfer. If you are worried about the bumpy roads in your area, sticking with the stock springs and dampers isn't a bad idea. Combining the stock springs and dampers with a stiffer front bar effectively increases your spring rate without any of the discomfort that comes with stiffer springs. It's a sweet setup, and if I wasn't tracking it I would have stock springs and dampers with a front bar and camber plates. That said, you're probably due for a damper refresh. Just getting fresh dampers makes a world of difference whether they are stock or aftermarket. I think that bigger discs would help with heat dissipation for running laps at the track, but I would start with brake ducting first if you're getting heat soak. I don't think there's any point in changing the calipers unless you want to upgrade to the Z4M discs or a proper BBK. I think you have a smart approach. I started with a 225/40r18 square setup to dial in the cars balance. You do get a little rub in the front with a 40 profile tire but it's no big deal. I will say that once you get everything dialed, 255/35 feels amazing on this car. Interesting, you are the first person I've seen talk about installing longer gearing, seems like everyone wants acceleration. Kudos to you for knowing what you want out of your car.

Thank again for the further information on the front of the car, I clearly need to do some reading on MacPherson strut setup! It sounds like it might be worth me trying a 27mm E46 M3 cabrio bar, they are readily available and fairly cheap (sub-£100) here as a starting point, so I can feel the difference for myself. I would love a hollow front bar for the weight loss and rigidity increase, but difficult to justify the money. A sneak peak into a video not finished yet, but I have KW V2 coilovers on my car now, that I suspect are broadly similar to your Bilsteins. I'm currently very slight lower (maybe 5mm) than Sport springs ride height, but had already been considering raising a touch to try it out, given your experiences it sounds like that might be a good plan. My personal impression with the coilovers so far is that the rear springs are a little too stiff (most likely to avoid bottoming out at the ring where these kits are developed), which means that at the lower rebound settings, the damper doesn't control the spring well enough. So I have to run the dampers at a mid setting, where everything feels just a little harsh. I am considering trying a standard Sport rear spring or something like an Eibach Pro-Kit rear spring, along with the KW dampers, too see if that allows me to run the dampers softer. I could then quickly swap in the KW springs and platforms for track use. Regards the gearing, I have bought a subtly shorter final drive diff, to have an LSD built into, to modestly improve acceleration and help find the right gear for each corner at the track, so will choose a taller tyre for the road so as to return the effective gearing to as it is now for cruising, it should also improve comfort a little too. 😊

Thank you! I think things should start moving with the videos very soon, I have been reading, learning, planning, have bought a few bits and installed a few. I intend on sharing what I do. :-)

Perfectly acceptable, it really is an excellent all round package given just how sharp it feels dynamically. That said, it's decidedly less comfortable than an equivalent non-M, on a longer journey my m140i was a nicer place to be.

Interesting to hear a few people with experience of both championing the Si as well as the M. The factory suspension of the M seems to come in for criticism in particular. Thanks for sharing.

​@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS I think as a younger man the m was fine, but other than some aesthetics, the si suits me better in my 30s, maybe that's a factor as well! Looking forward to more videos!

I think that's a very lucky daughter indeed, what excellent parenting to share the passion!! I agree the e86 might be a nice compromise between still being fun and capable whilst not being deadly and expensive! What a great set of cars you have!!! I have read about the similarities with the e46 and am particularly interested in the rear suspension. Do you know if the rear springs and in particular damper stroke is shorter on the e86 than the e46?... Thanks for saying that about the engine note... I had thought it but hadn't dared say so!! Not quite as spectacular and needs some extra revs, but has a similar sound. :-)

No, the only problem I ran into has fuel surge when the tank was half full or lower. The transmission was never an issue.

Thanks for sharing, and very easy to overlook regards the increase in stiffness... 2mm might sound little but have a large impact, especially on other cars with very spindly rear bars. I have heard annecdotal reports from others since this video that the rear bar alone made a positive difference to the drive as hoped.

@@CIRCUITDRIVERCARS Which rear did they go for in the end? The 19 or the 16... facing the same question now as I'm doing rear end work and could have arb fitted for low/no extra labour

I didn't use them on track, I had the Meister Rs fitted at that point but played around plenty on the road. On this car and for the fairly poor roads near me, the factory settings made for a very good starting point and I don't think I materially improved it on the road from there.